Sunday, 4 January 2015

Mekong Bird

Once we managed to pass through the busy customs post at Poipet-apparently if we tipped te policeman he would take us to the front of the queue-a good road led us on to Sisophon.We are so accustomed to the widespead use of English that it is disconcerting not to be able to communicate freely. But we easily found a cheap guesthouse with a local restaurant nearby.But there was no apple pie or chocolate cake and Jerry and I had a craving for it. So we went walkabout. One eatery looked realy inviting; umbrellas of varying colours hung from the ceiling to good effect. I asked the lady at the centre of operations if they did coffee.
No, no coffee.
Do you have chocolate cake?
No cake.
Do you do food? (As plates were flying out of the kichen...)
No food.

We have found nothing but courtesy, kindness and honesty so far.On the next day,97km to Siam Reap, the road was excellent, though straight and flat. But all along this raised roadway are ponds of water, perhaps more of a river in the wet season. Small ducks were being reared, children mixed swimming with fishing, a woman and her family were groping in the mud for eels.
As we entered Siam Reap, we passed hotels built like palaces, extravagant but beautiful and stylish. Our accommadtion was of a more modest, homely style.Rooms cleaned and towels changed everyday and a good bed, fortunately so for me as I spent 2 days in it with a chest infection. Jerry and Viv cycled round Angor Wat. I think they probably enjoyed it more than they let on so as not to upset me! But I do not feel I have missed out on it. It is going to be around for a few more centuries, plenty of time to do it sometime in thefuture with Carole perhaps.
So I was by the side of the road this morning at 6am, waiting for the minibus to collect me,and I was able to see Jerry and Viv off at the start of 2 hard days of cycling  to where I am now quite happily settling in.
The 4+ hour journey was broken for a toilet stop at a roadside eatery. One of the passengers, a young Asian girl, suddenly emitted strange noises and promptly slumped over the table, seemingly lifeless.What a commotion as the local people rushed over to her, feeling her pulses then carrying her over to lay her flat on a big table while trying to revive her.
Meanwhile, our driver had taken out all our luggage from behind the seats and pushed boxes of canned beer the full length of the vehicle which would have left us with our chins on our knees. Now one of the passengers, a young Israeli, had seen this happening and taken the boxesout from where his and my feet would be and was now hectoring the driver to do the same for the others. He was quite right that we had paid $18 each and should not have to suffer this.But his attitude was completely arrogant and confrontational, so over the top as to be funny.
Ah, what happened to the girl?
Yeah, she came round.
I am sat on this little jetty protruding over the placid waters of the Mèkong. The sun has set, slowly reeling in the colour from the sky. Flocks of birds skim the water on their way back from their feeding ground. Low level bird chatter allows me still to pick out the sound of a wind instrument from one of the nearby islands.A fisherman has tied his boat to a floating raft 100m out from the bank and sings a poignant melody.

2 comments:

  1. Well done Eric hope your chest infection better soon
    Jeanette

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  2. Improving every day thanks Jeanette.Should be back on the road with Viv and Jerry on Wed after they have a rest day here.I hope you are all well! Eric.

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