There had to be a sting in the tale, and there was. The cycling and scenery had been too good. Leaving Sekong, where there were a no. of options for overnight, we felt good enough to carry on at least another 25 kms to Thane Beng. This was the point from where we could turn to start the 1250m climb onto the plateau to Paksong 71kms away.But there was nowhere to stay in Thane Beng, only the chance of a guesthouse partway up the plateau.As we chewed the cud, 2 Slovakian riders, coming from Attapeu, stopped briefly.
We decided to carry on, through lush mountain slopes, the road steep. I was slowing Viv and Jerry down now and the afternoon was coming to a close.What if there were not a guesthouse. I did not feel able to complete the distance to Paksong, certainly not in the dark, and quite understandably Viv refused to sleep by the side of the road.
We came across a small gathering and one man spoke English: yes, he said, in another 7 kms there is a guesthouse. It was pitch black when we turned in at the sign Guesthouse...tired, dirty and hungry. Did we hear the man right...full? Are you sure? Sorry, full. As we pondered this setback, the 2 Slovakian lads appeared. They had been given mattresses in a loft.The owner, Charlie, offered to put another mattress up there for us. With no offer of food, the five of us cheered ourselves up with beer and peanuts.
(Charlie left Laos in 1982 with his wife and 5 children, at a very troubled time here, and fled as refugees to Australia.Although his children and grandchildren now live in Sydney, he has returned with his wife to open this guesthouse.)
So first stop this morning was a shack for some rice to set us up for the climb to Paksong.We have found good rooms and just thrown down some bread, tomato and doughnuts.(This is the first bread in 2 weeks).We have been unable as yet to authenticate the Bolaven Plateau's reputation for producing the best coffee in the world, but we will keep trying.
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